Laugavegur, Iceland
Day 1, Landmannalauger to Hrafntinnusker, 7.5 mile
It is a 5-hour ride from the central bus terminal in Reykjavik to the trailhead of this most talked about trail in Iceland. At the trailhead in Landmannalauger we needed extra time studying trail signs and my GPS to get oriented and find our trail. Our failure to properly pronounce any of the named places didn’t help. But the long line of hikers on this one particular trail was a dead giveaway. It is after all the most popular trail in Iceland, or so we were told. It is also well-marked, once you get used to their system.
The trail to Hrafntinnusker hut goes up across a mountain ridge. The landscape is that of a frozen desert with the ground in shades of volcanic brown. In addition, grass growing low to the ground and a variety of mosses manage to get some green into the color palette.
I read that at times the area is covered with a thick blanket of fog, which is the reason they have placed so many trail markers along the way. And there is still snow in patches left over from winter even though it is the middle of July. Also thermal springs create plumes of steam here and there for a show.
And finally, the Hrafntinnusker hut. It looks like it could be at any exotic alpine location, but here it is at just 3000 ft our so.
Day 2, Hrafntinnusker to Alftavtan, 7.5 mile
The second day starts in a similar terrain with more bubbling hot springs mixed with snow patches along the way.
But soon enough the scenery begins to change with more wildflowers, better defined streams and the trail begins to drop into a wide valley. Glacier covered mountains are clearly visible in the far distance.
Also lake Alftavtan, our destination for the day, comes into view.
And finally we arrive at the hut and tent area on the shore of lake Alftavtan.
It looks like a small tent city. There is a glacier on the mountains in the distance, but it is too far too see in the following photograph.
Day 3, Alftavtan to Botnar, 10 mile
Day 3 begins with stream crossings which defines this days hike. Some on bridges, and many by fording. Some of the bridges could use a bit of maintenance.
And wildflowers, lots and lots of wildflowers.
And finally just before the Botnar hut a side trail leads along the edge of the amazing canyon of the Markarfijor river.
Day 4, Botnar to Porsmork, 10 mile
After 3 days of good weather, our luck ran out. We learn that bad weather is the rule, rather then the exception in Iceland. The trail starts out of Botnar hut starts by crossing the deep canyon of the Eremri Emstrua River on a questionable bridge.
About half way the landscape changes as the trail goes through a forest and also fords yet another river, this one is the biggest and the water flowers the fastest. By this time the weather turned into a steady downpour. Can you imagine taking off your hiking boots in the rain to cross a river, and then putting them back on while trying to stay dry? It doesn’t work.
I regret not being able to share any pictures on account offthe rain.
Day 5, back to Reykjavik
The bus back to Reykjavik arrives at 4 PM, leaving plenty of time to explore the area. Once the rain stopped we climbed the Valahnukur, the high point behind our hut at Porsmork. There is some stunning view from up there.
The end