Laugavegur backpack trip

Laugavegur, Iceland

Day 1, Landmannalauger to Hrafntinnusker, 7.5 mile

It is a 5-hour ride from the central bus terminal in Reykjavik to the trailhead of this most talked about trail in Iceland. At the trailhead in Landmannalauger we needed extra time studying trail signs and my GPS to get oriented and find our trail. Our failure to properly pronounce any of the named places didn’t help. But the long line of hikers on this one particular trail was a dead giveaway. It is after all the most popular trail in Iceland, or so we were told. It is also well-marked, once you get used to their system.

David found our trail

The trail to Hrafntinnusker hut goes up across a mountain ridge. The landscape is that of a frozen desert with the ground in shades of volcanic brown. In addition, grass growing low to the ground and a variety of mosses manage to get some green into the color palette.

It is a frozen desert with a bit of grass and moss for color
The trail is marked with sticks in the ground spaced about 100 meter apart. It seems difficult to get lost.

I read that at times the area is covered with a thick blanket of fog, which is the reason they have placed so many trail markers along the way. And there is still snow in patches left over from winter even though it is the middle of July. Also thermal springs create plumes of steam here and there for a show.

Crossing a snow patch

And finally, the Hrafntinnusker hut. It looks like it could be at any exotic alpine location, but here it is at just 3000 ft our so.

Hrafntinnusker hut

Day 2, Hrafntinnusker to Alftavtan, 7.5 mile

The second day starts in a similar terrain with more bubbling hot springs mixed with snow patches along the way.

A bubbling hot spring along the trail

But soon enough the scenery begins to change with more wildflowers, better defined streams and the trail begins to drop into a wide valley. Glacier covered mountains are clearly visible in the far distance.

Pink moss campion along the trail

Also lake Alftavtan, our destination for the day, comes into view.

Armeria maritima and the Vatnajokull Glacier, view along the Laugavegur trail to Alftavatn hut
Dandelion in Iceland?

And finally we arrive at the hut and tent area on the shore of lake Alftavtan.

Alftavtan hut

It looks like a small tent city. There is a glacier on the mountains in the distance, but it is too far too see in the following photograph.

Tents by lake Alftavtan

Day 3, Alftavtan to Botnar, 10 mile

Day 3 begins with stream crossings which defines this days hike. Some on bridges, and many by fording. Some of the bridges could use a bit of maintenance.

Stream crossing on a rickety bridge, Alftavatn to Botnar hut
Yet another ford along the way to Botnar hut
The Kaldaklofskvisl stream bridge, Laugavegur trail
The Kaldaklofskvisl stream road ford, looks challenging, Laugavegur trail

And wildflowers, lots and lots of wildflowers.

Armeria maritima along the Laugavegur trail

And finally just before the Botnar hut a side trail leads along the edge of the amazing canyon of the Markarfijor river.

Me looking into the Markarfijor canyon near the Botnar hut, Laugavegur trail
Me looking into the Markarfijor canyon near the Botnar hut, Laugavegur trail

Day 4, Botnar to Porsmork, 10 mile

After 3 days of good weather, our luck ran out. We learn that bad weather is the rule, rather then the exception in Iceland. The trail starts out of Botnar hut starts by crossing the deep canyon of the Eremri Emstrua River on a questionable bridge.

David crossing the Eremri Emstrua River, Laugavegur trail
The bridge from the other direction

About half way the landscape changes as the trail goes through a forest and also fords yet another river, this one is the biggest and the water flowers the fastest. By this time the weather turned into a steady downpour. Can you imagine taking off your hiking boots in the rain to cross a river, and then putting them back on while trying to stay dry? It doesn’t work.

Hikers on the trail to Porsmork, Laugavegur trail
Sea campion along the trail to Porsmork

I regret not being able to share any pictures on account offthe rain.

Day 5, back to Reykjavik

The bus back to Reykjavik arrives at 4 PM, leaving plenty of time to explore the area. Once the rain stopped we climbed the Valahnukur, the high point behind our hut at Porsmork. There is some stunning view from up there.

Me at the Valahnukur point, Porsmork
The trail to Valahnukur, Porsmork

The end